Textured Acorn Beanie

This beanie features the “textured acorn” pattern, in the body of the work. I found this stitch in a very old knitting book and it was called the Acorn stitch. But after a bit of searching, I discovered that it is now called the Textured Acorn Stitch.

I created a ribbing that is unique in order to work congruously with this pattern. It is a bit tricky, so pay close attention to your stitches.

Because this pattern produces a very stretchy material, you can go down a size and still have a hat that fits. And it means a beanie will still fit a child through quite a few years of growth.

This pattern has a 10 stitch repeat, with the main body repeating from 1 - 2 or more times. This makes the pattern adaptable to various weights of yarn. Just do a small swatch (in the round) to get a better idea of how many repeats you will need.

When following the written instructions only, it will be easier if you place stitch markers (sm) at the end of each of your main pattern rounds, and also right before the decreasing rounds, as the instructions change round count.

The chart and it’s instructions are color coded, but also numbered should you print out the pattern in black and white.

I enlisted the aid of a few Ravelry friends in finalizing this pattern. It has been a long time in the making. 

* Special thanks to all and especially “Jadee” for her dogged perseverance, editing and very helpful advice.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/textured-acorn-beanie

http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/edit/73930?pdfReplaced=false&NAVIGATION_PAGE_CONTEXT_ATTR=PATTERN

Woven Basket

Woven Basket

Non - Reversible

Multiples of 2 stitches, and 2 row Repeat

photo shows Worsted Weight, size 8 needles

4 x 4 inch swatch = 22 stitches, 18 rows

This is a tight stitch with good density. Appropriate for pillows, mats, coats, or anything that doesn't require drape and benefits with a stiffer material.

Solid colors show up the dimensionality of this pattern, but it also could be very appealing in a heather yarn.

The chart shows a cable stitch, however given there are only ever two stitches involved, it is quite easy to knit the second stitch first by coming from the back, then knitting the first stitch and slipping them both off. And on the even (ws) rows, purl the second stitch first, then purl the first and slip both off. 

Woven Basket Chart Instructions

Cast on Multiples of 2 stitches

Row 1 (rs): ( 11 lc ) _x, or to end

Row 2 (ws): p1 ( 11 rc ) _x, p1

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until desired length

3 Color Brioche Rib

3 Color Brioche Rib

Reversible

Multiple of  2 + 1 stitches and 6 rows

photo shows Sport weight, size US 5

4x4 inch swatch = 11 stitches, 52 rows

This stitch pattern has a lot of horizontal stretch, but because it is a brioche stitch, the stitch is compacted vertically. 

The use of 3 alternating colors, helps add visual interest, but this pattern can be done with one yarn, as well as a mixture of many yarns.

For making a long scarf, cast on at least 211 stitches, or any larger uneven number and leave ends free (as fringe). In this way, you can use this pattern as a stash buster. 

This chart can be used to see how 3 different yarns [CA (color A), CB, and CC], used alternately, only repeat every 7 rows. 

The pattern is started on the wrong side (ws). This is just for use of the chart, as the pattern is reversible.

Cast on using the Italian 2 color CO method   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=777ow6z5S0E

Set up Row 1 (ws): Using CB (k1, sl1yo) to last stitch, k1, UNDO - the slip knot, that was used to hold the yarns together (so you don't accidentally use it as a stitch).

.

Row 2 (rs): Using CC, sl1yo (brk, sl1yo) to end

Row 3 (ws): Using CA, (brk, sl1yo) to last stitch, brk

Row 4 (rs): Using CB, repeat Row 2

Row 5 (ws): Using CC, repeat Row 3

Row 6 (rs): Using CA, repeat Row 2

Row 7 (ws): Using CB, repeat Row 3

Repeat Rows 2 thru 7, until desired length

Final Row (rs): Using CB, Repeat Row 4 to end

Bind off (ws): Using CC, and the Kitchener Stitch, bind off the brks as knits, and the single stitches as purls. 

Bramble Stitch

Bramble Stitch

Non - Reversible

Multiples of 4 stitches and 4 rows

photo shows DK weight, size 6 needles

4x4 inch swatch = 22 stitches, 24 rows

Fairly easy pattern with only 2 alternating stitches, that are again alternated on each alternate row. However, all the alternating can get confusing, so here are some constants.

The rows in between are all purled. These purled rows are on the public or right side (rs) of the stitch pattern. So, if the right side is facing you, while knitting the next row, you know it is a purl row. When the reverse, wrong side (ws) is facing, you will start with the alternate stitch of the stitch you started with on the last reverse side row (i.e. - if row 4 started with p3tog, row 6 will start with inc3).

Bramble Stitch Instructions

Cast on a multiple of 4 stitches

*NOTE - start the chart on the left side

Row 1 (ws): purl

Row 2 (rs): (inc3, p3tog) to end or row

Row 3 (ws): purl

Row 4 (rs): (p3tog, inc3) to end of row

Repeat Rows 1 thru 4, until desired length

Brioche Honeycomb

Brioche Honeycomb

Non - Reversible

Multiples of 2 with increase to 3, and 4 row repeat

photo shows DK weight, size 6 needles

4x4 inch swatch = 16 with increase to 24 stitches, 22 rows

Super stretch and texture, with a pattern that may seem intimidating at first (but becomes easier as you go along), makes this stitch very interesting. The texture makes it thick, but the yo's keep it lightweight. The reverse side looks like purling.

The one drawback to this stitch is "snagability". The thickness makes it undesirable for socks, and the ability to snag easily might make it a poor choice for mitts, or sleeves and lower torso of a sweater.

When reading the chart, remember that the grey areas represent the absense of a stitch. They are there to compensate for one stitch that will be used as two stitches in the next row.

In most brioche knitting, you knit/purl together a stitch and the yo that was done with it, in the previous row. However, in this pattern, the yo is slipped up to the NEXT row (2 rows up from the sl1yo) to be brioched in THAT row. 

Brioche Honeycomb Chart Instructions (START ON LEFT ws SIDE)

Cast on a multiple of 2 stitches (which will be increased to 3 in row 2 by the yo's, then decreased back to 2 in the following row by the brioche stitch, and continue on in this manner throughout the pattern).

*Note - when handling the "k1, slip wyib the yo stitch", you will knit the stitch that the yo "sits on" first. Then slip the yo stitch wyib. And the same goes when you have k2, before the slipped yo.

Row 1 (ws): k1 (sl1yo, k1) _x, sl1yo

Row 2 (rs):  (k1, slip wyib the yo stitch, k1) _x, to end

Row 3 (ws): (sl1yo, brk) _x, to end

Row 4 (rs):  (k2, slip wyib the yo stitch) _x, to end

Row 5 (ws): (brk, sl1yo) _x, to end

Row 6 (rs):  (k1, slip wyib the yo stitch) _x, to last stitch, k1

Repeat Rows 3 thru 6 to desired length

Lace Wings Stitch

Lace Wings Stitch

Non - Reversible

Multiples of 7 stitches and 4 rows

photo shows DK weight, size 6 (4mm) needles

swatch is 18 sts, 28 rows in 4 inch square

This pattern looks a lot more complicated than it is. It's actually easy and fast. The stitch creates vertical lines in the middle of the pattern, however it gives the appearance of the pattern being between the vertical lines.

The back is boring, so a reversible design should not be considered.

This stitch would make a great body for a light - medium weight sweater.

Instructions

Cast on multiples of 7 stitches

Row 1 (ws): purl

Row 2 (rs): (k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1) to end

Row 3 (ws): purl

Row 4 (rs): (k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk) to end

Repeat  Rows 1 thru 4, to desired length

3 Color Brioche (stockinette) Stitch

3 Color Brioche Stitch

Non - Reversible

(although reverse looks good)

Multiples of 2 + 1, with a 9 row repeat

Gauge is 4 stitches and 8 rows per inch

Chart Instructions

Color A (CA)- Grape AIM-16 Color B (CB) - Bud AIM-05 Color C (CC) - Sandal Wood AIM-09

Cast on 39 stitches ( using Italian cast on - using only one color - Grape is used here )

*NOTE - Side (first and last) stitches to be knit on the (rs) and slipped on the (ws), to keep a more even edge.

Row 1 (ws): (set up row created by cast on - in CA)

Row 2 (rs): With CB ( k1, sl1yo) to last stitch, k1

Row 3 (ws): With CC s1 (brp, sl1yo) to last 2 stitches, brp, s1

Row 4 (rs): With CA k1 ( sl1yo, brk ) to last 2 stitches, sl1yo, k1

Row 5 (ws): With CB s1 ( brp, sl1yo) to last 2 stitches, brp, s1

Row 6 (rs): With CC k1 ( sl1yo, brk ) to last 2 stitches, sl1yo, k1

Row 7 (ws): With CA s1 ( brp, sl1yo) to last 2 stitches, brp, s1

Row 8 (rs): With CB k1 ( sl1yo, brk ) to last 2 stitches, sl1yo, k1

Repeat Rows 3 thru 8 until desired length (make sure you have enough yarn left of your CA to knit 2 more rows)

Recommended Finish -

Repeat Row 3

Last Row - Knit across using only CA

Bind Off - Using Kitchener stitch Bind off in CA 

Why You Should ALWAYS Swatch a New Pattern

The Importance of a Swatch

In my knitting stitch travels, I've come to realize one great truth. We need to ALWAYS knit a SWATCH.

Yes, we may think it's not ALWAYS necessary, especially on a scarf, and it can seem like a real drudge, BUT...

Take a look at these stitch swatches

Rib Diagonal Stitch

Diagonal Stitch

Even a scarf can be tricky, if you're using a stitch pattern that sends your stitches in weird directions.

Now, personally, I love the "Rib Diagonal Stitch" Pattern. It's a beautiful pattern, and it makes great diamonds GOING DIAGONALLY! Still you could make a bunch of diamonds and sew them together, I guess.

However, the point is, it doesn't work for most knit patterns. You would have to compensate by adding and deleting side stitches, to keep it straight. Something I'll have to look into, at a future date.

The "Diagonal Stitch" pattern is another matter, all together. It seems to travel everywhere, and not equally. I don't know how you could compensate for that.

It's always bothered me, that you have to stretch and pin knitted pieces, to get them to conform with pattern schematics. It's a pain, when they're in pieces, but after being sewn together, worn and washed, it's an even greater pain. 

Some stitch patterns are just difficult to work with (as seen above). They are legitimate stitch patterns, but should not be used in very many applications. They should be labeled "knitter beware".

So I have become a firm believer now. I hope I've convinced any non-believers out there.

You really need to swatch if:

* You're using a new pattern

* You're using a new yarn on an old pattern 

* You're using a new stitch pattern. Don't assume the photographs are a true representation of the pattern outcome.  They may have been drastically stretched. 

* You're using an old pattern with the same yarn you've used before, but it's in a different color. Dyes effect the yarn, and can make it react differently than the same yarn in another color.

* You're using an old pattern with the same old yarn, and the same needle size, BUT a different set of needles. Again, different needles, different reactions to yarn, and possibly a different gauge.

So, in other words, you can only get by without a swatch, if you're knitting the same pattern, in the same yarn and color, with the same needles. But swatch, anyway!

Happy Knitting!

Bow Knot Stitch

Bow Knot Stitch

(but it looks like a dragonfly, to me)

Non - Reversible

Multiples of 18 + 9

(but for working in the round, multiples of 18 work)

photo shows Worsted weight, size 8 needle

swatch is 6 x 6 inches, 27 stitches, 20 rows

This is a relatively easy stitch, and reminds me of dragonflies. The pattern can easily be changed by shortening the purl rows, to give a butterfly effect.

This pattern can be stopped, only after Row 10 or Row 20. Anything else would disrupt the stitch pattern and overall appearance.

Stitch Pattern Instructions

Cast on multiples of 18 + 9 stitches, or multiples of 18 (if sides don't have to look the same)

Row 1 (rs): (k9, p9) _x, k9

Row 2 (ws): p9 (k9, p9) _x, to end

Row 3 (rs): knit

Row 4 (ws): purl

Row 5 (rs): knit

Row 6 (ws): purl

Row 7 (rs): (k9, p9) _x, k9

Row 8 (ws): p9 (k9, p9) _x, to end

Row 9 (rs): k9 (k4, Dus9r, k4) _x, k9

Row 10 (ws): purl

Row 11 (rs): (p9, k9) _x, p9

Row 12 (ws): k9 (p9, k9) _x, to end

Row 13 (rs): knit

Row 14 (ws): purl

Row 15 (rs): knit

Row 16 (ws): purl

Row 17 (rs): (p9, k9) _x, p9

Row 18 (ws): k9 (p9, k9) _x, to end

Row 19 (rs): (k4, Dus9r, k13) _x, k4, Dus9r, k4

Row 20 (ws): purl

Repeat rows1 thru 20

Further explanation of  

Insert right needle tip in the purl loop, nine rows below the next stitch, and place it on the left needle. Knit the next stitch and the loop together, making one stitch and creating a bow like effect.

This bow concept can be altered by changing stitches and rows used, and done in a lace weight yarn, this stitch will appear quite different.

If knitting in the round, omit the extra 9 stitches and follow the boardered chart pattern only.