Brioche Honeycomb

Brioche Honeycomb

Non - Reversible

Multiples of 2 with increase to 3, and 4 row repeat

photo shows DK weight, size 6 needles

4x4 inch swatch = 16 with increase to 24 stitches, 22 rows

Super stretch and texture, with a pattern that may seem intimidating at first (but becomes easier as you go along), makes this stitch very interesting. The texture makes it thick, but the yo's keep it lightweight. The reverse side looks like purling.

The one drawback to this stitch is "snagability". The thickness makes it undesirable for socks, and the ability to snag easily might make it a poor choice for mitts, or sleeves and lower torso of a sweater.

When reading the chart, remember that the grey areas represent the absense of a stitch. They are there to compensate for one stitch that will be used as two stitches in the next row.

In most brioche knitting, you knit/purl together a stitch and the yo that was done with it, in the previous row. However, in this pattern, the yo is slipped up to the NEXT row (2 rows up from the sl1yo) to be brioched in THAT row. 

Brioche Honeycomb Chart Instructions (START ON LEFT ws SIDE)

Cast on a multiple of 2 stitches (which will be increased to 3 in row 2 by the yo's, then decreased back to 2 in the following row by the brioche stitch, and continue on in this manner throughout the pattern).

*Note - when handling the "k1, slip wyib the yo stitch", you will knit the stitch that the yo "sits on" first. Then slip the yo stitch wyib. And the same goes when you have k2, before the slipped yo.

Row 1 (ws): k1 (sl1yo, k1) _x, sl1yo

Row 2 (rs):  (k1, slip wyib the yo stitch, k1) _x, to end

Row 3 (ws): (sl1yo, brk) _x, to end

Row 4 (rs):  (k2, slip wyib the yo stitch) _x, to end

Row 5 (ws): (brk, sl1yo) _x, to end

Row 6 (rs):  (k1, slip wyib the yo stitch) _x, to last stitch, k1

Repeat Rows 3 thru 6 to desired length

Lace Wings Stitch

Lace Wings Stitch

Non - Reversible

Multiples of 7 stitches and 4 rows

photo shows DK weight, size 6 (4mm) needles

swatch is 18 sts, 28 rows in 4 inch square

This pattern looks a lot more complicated than it is. It's actually easy and fast. The stitch creates vertical lines in the middle of the pattern, however it gives the appearance of the pattern being between the vertical lines.

The back is boring, so a reversible design should not be considered.

This stitch would make a great body for a light - medium weight sweater.

Instructions

Cast on multiples of 7 stitches

Row 1 (ws): purl

Row 2 (rs): (k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1) to end

Row 3 (ws): purl

Row 4 (rs): (k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk) to end

Repeat  Rows 1 thru 4, to desired length

3 Color Brioche (stockinette) Stitch

3 Color Brioche Stitch

Non - Reversible

(although reverse looks good)

Multiples of 2 + 1, with a 9 row repeat

Gauge is 4 stitches and 8 rows per inch

Chart Instructions

Color A (CA)- Grape AIM-16 Color B (CB) - Bud AIM-05 Color C (CC) - Sandal Wood AIM-09

Cast on 39 stitches ( using Italian cast on - using only one color - Grape is used here )

*NOTE - Side (first and last) stitches to be knit on the (rs) and slipped on the (ws), to keep a more even edge.

Row 1 (ws): (set up row created by cast on - in CA)

Row 2 (rs): With CB ( k1, sl1yo) to last stitch, k1

Row 3 (ws): With CC s1 (brp, sl1yo) to last 2 stitches, brp, s1

Row 4 (rs): With CA k1 ( sl1yo, brk ) to last 2 stitches, sl1yo, k1

Row 5 (ws): With CB s1 ( brp, sl1yo) to last 2 stitches, brp, s1

Row 6 (rs): With CC k1 ( sl1yo, brk ) to last 2 stitches, sl1yo, k1

Row 7 (ws): With CA s1 ( brp, sl1yo) to last 2 stitches, brp, s1

Row 8 (rs): With CB k1 ( sl1yo, brk ) to last 2 stitches, sl1yo, k1

Repeat Rows 3 thru 8 until desired length (make sure you have enough yarn left of your CA to knit 2 more rows)

Recommended Finish -

Repeat Row 3

Last Row - Knit across using only CA

Bind Off - Using Kitchener stitch Bind off in CA 

Why You Should ALWAYS Swatch a New Pattern

The Importance of a Swatch

In my knitting stitch travels, I've come to realize one great truth. We need to ALWAYS knit a SWATCH.

Yes, we may think it's not ALWAYS necessary, especially on a scarf, and it can seem like a real drudge, BUT...

Take a look at these stitch swatches

Rib Diagonal Stitch

Diagonal Stitch

Even a scarf can be tricky, if you're using a stitch pattern that sends your stitches in weird directions.

Now, personally, I love the "Rib Diagonal Stitch" Pattern. It's a beautiful pattern, and it makes great diamonds GOING DIAGONALLY! Still you could make a bunch of diamonds and sew them together, I guess.

However, the point is, it doesn't work for most knit patterns. You would have to compensate by adding and deleting side stitches, to keep it straight. Something I'll have to look into, at a future date.

The "Diagonal Stitch" pattern is another matter, all together. It seems to travel everywhere, and not equally. I don't know how you could compensate for that.

It's always bothered me, that you have to stretch and pin knitted pieces, to get them to conform with pattern schematics. It's a pain, when they're in pieces, but after being sewn together, worn and washed, it's an even greater pain. 

Some stitch patterns are just difficult to work with (as seen above). They are legitimate stitch patterns, but should not be used in very many applications. They should be labeled "knitter beware".

So I have become a firm believer now. I hope I've convinced any non-believers out there.

You really need to swatch if:

* You're using a new pattern

* You're using a new yarn on an old pattern 

* You're using a new stitch pattern. Don't assume the photographs are a true representation of the pattern outcome.  They may have been drastically stretched. 

* You're using an old pattern with the same yarn you've used before, but it's in a different color. Dyes effect the yarn, and can make it react differently than the same yarn in another color.

* You're using an old pattern with the same old yarn, and the same needle size, BUT a different set of needles. Again, different needles, different reactions to yarn, and possibly a different gauge.

So, in other words, you can only get by without a swatch, if you're knitting the same pattern, in the same yarn and color, with the same needles. But swatch, anyway!

Happy Knitting!

Bow Knot Stitch

Bow Knot Stitch

(but it looks like a dragonfly, to me)

Non - Reversible

Multiples of 18 + 9

(but for working in the round, multiples of 18 work)

photo shows Worsted weight, size 8 needle

swatch is 6 x 6 inches, 27 stitches, 20 rows

This is a relatively easy stitch, and reminds me of dragonflies. The pattern can easily be changed by shortening the purl rows, to give a butterfly effect.

This pattern can be stopped, only after Row 10 or Row 20. Anything else would disrupt the stitch pattern and overall appearance.

Stitch Pattern Instructions

Cast on multiples of 18 + 9 stitches, or multiples of 18 (if sides don't have to look the same)

Row 1 (rs): (k9, p9) _x, k9

Row 2 (ws): p9 (k9, p9) _x, to end

Row 3 (rs): knit

Row 4 (ws): purl

Row 5 (rs): knit

Row 6 (ws): purl

Row 7 (rs): (k9, p9) _x, k9

Row 8 (ws): p9 (k9, p9) _x, to end

Row 9 (rs): k9 (k4, Dus9r, k4) _x, k9

Row 10 (ws): purl

Row 11 (rs): (p9, k9) _x, p9

Row 12 (ws): k9 (p9, k9) _x, to end

Row 13 (rs): knit

Row 14 (ws): purl

Row 15 (rs): knit

Row 16 (ws): purl

Row 17 (rs): (p9, k9) _x, p9

Row 18 (ws): k9 (p9, k9) _x, to end

Row 19 (rs): (k4, Dus9r, k13) _x, k4, Dus9r, k4

Row 20 (ws): purl

Repeat rows1 thru 20

Further explanation of  

Insert right needle tip in the purl loop, nine rows below the next stitch, and place it on the left needle. Knit the next stitch and the loop together, making one stitch and creating a bow like effect.

This bow concept can be altered by changing stitches and rows used, and done in a lace weight yarn, this stitch will appear quite different.

If knitting in the round, omit the extra 9 stitches and follow the boardered chart pattern only.

Baby Fern Stitch

Baby Fern Stitch

Non - Reversible

Multiples of 9 +4 stitches

photo shows Lace weight, size 2 needles

swatch is 5 1/2  x  5 1/2 inches

31 stitches, 43 rows

The photo doesn't show, but this pattern gives a nice scalloped edge. But it curls up and scrunches together.  It would probably be better to Cast on in a larger needle, to avoid this problem. The bind off is straight, however. 

If knitting a scarf, it would be ideal to knit two identical lengths and then join them together on the straight, bound off, edges. That way each end would have the nice scalloped edge.

The scalloped edge would also look great on mitts or beanies. There's a fair amount of elasticity to this pattern, so a ribbing may not be necessary. A couple of pattern lengths could also be used as trim.

Stitch pattern Chart

Chart 1 and Pattern Instructions

Cast on multiples of 9 + 4 stitches (two pattern sequences in chart - 22 stitches)

Row 1 (ws): purl

Row 2 (rs): k2, (ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog) _x, k2

Row 3 (ws): k1, purl to last stitch, k1

Row 4 (rs): k2, (ssk, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, k2tog) _x, k2

Row 5 (ws): Repeat Row 3

Row 6 (rs): k2, (ssk, yo, k5, yo, k2tog) _x, k2

Row 7 (ws): Repeat Row 3

Repeat Rows 2 thru 7 for desired number of times

Chart to show how pattern looks

Basket Double

Basket Double

Reversible

Multiples of 18 + 10 stitches

photo shows Worsted weight, size 8 needle

swatch is 6 x 6 inches

28 stitches, 18 rows

This is a nice reversible pattern that has plenty of stretch. The pattern becomes self-explanatory after a working the first pattern set.

Swatch Chart

Cast on multiples of 18 + 10 stitches

Row 1 (rs):    (k11, p2, k2, p2, k1) _x, k10

Row 2 (ws):   p1, k8, p1 (p1,k2, p2, k2, p2, k8, p1) _x, to end

Row 3 (rs):    (k1, p8, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1) _x, k1, p8, k1

Row 4 (ws):   p10 (p1, k2, p2, k2, p11) _x, to end

Row 5 (rs):    (k11, p2, k2, p2, k1) _x, k10

Row 6 (ws):   p1, k8, p1 (p1,k2, p2, k2, p2, k8, p1) _x, to end

Row 7 (rs):   (k1, p8, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1) _x, k1, p8, k1

Row 8 (ws):  p10 (p1, k2, p2, k2, p11) _x, to end

Row 9 (rs):   knit to end

Row 10 (ws):  (p2, k2) 2x, p2 (p10, k2, p2, k2, p2) _x, to end

Row 11 (rs):   (k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p8) _x, (k2, p2) 2x, k2

Row 12 (ws):  (p2, k2) 2x, p2, (k8, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2) _x, to end

Row 13 (rs):   (k2, p2, k2, p2, k10) _x, (k2, p2) 2x, k2

Row 14 (ws):  (p2, k2, p2, k2, p2 (p10, k2, p2, k2, p2) _x, to end

Row 15 (rs):   (k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p8) _x, (k2, p2) 2x, k2

Row 16 (ws):  (p2, k2) 2x, p2, (k8, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2) _x, to end

Row 17 (rs):   (k2, p2, k2, p2, k10) _x, (k2, p2) 2x, k2

Row 18 (ws):  purl to end

Repeat Rows 1 thru 18 for desired number of times

Eyelet Lace Stitch

Eyelet Lace Stitch

Reversible

Multiples of 4 (with extra side stitches)

photo shows Worsted weight, size 8 needles

swatch is 6 x 6 inches

28 stitches, 18 rows

A few things about this stitch. In worsted weight, it gives the appearance of crochet, no real drape and medium density. However, in a lighter weight with a much larger needle, this could have a lace effect with drape.

This is a very easy pattern, and knits up quickly.

Eyelet Lace Stitch Chart

Cast on multiples of 4 stitches, and additional edge stitches (the chart uses 2 additional on each edge)

Row 1 (rs): p2 ( yo, p4tog ) _x, p2

Row 2 (ws): k2 ( k1, inc3 ) _x, k2

Row 3 (rs): knit